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Boston Food & Drink Website|Sunday, December 21, 2014
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Fall Musings at Canary Square 


Being the week before Thanksgiving, this might not be the best time to let you in on a little secret of mine, but I’m going to tell you anyway: I am not a fan of Thanksgiving. There. I said it. I love seeing family, I love that it starts to usher in my favorite holiday, and I love that it signals the ok to start listening to Christmas music on Pandora at work.

But turkey? No thank you. Stuffing? Eh. I like my mom’s version with breakfast sausage and that’s about it. Fall spices in general just don’t resonate with me like they do with most people and I will definitely pass on carrots and turnips.

Enter Canary Square. On a chilly evening a few weeks back, Canary Square in JP cooked up a fall-themed dinner, complete with beer pairings, and it was exactly the meal that I would love to have for Thanksgiving. All the flavors of fall were there: sage, carrots, pumpkin, but with a depth of flavor that goes above and beyond any turkey that I’ve ever had.

Acorn Squash Tortellini (mozzarella, brown butter, spinach, parm)

Tortellini were delicately assembled with house-made pasta and mozzarella and filled with spinach and parmesan. The sweetness of the brown butter was noticeable yet not overpowering. The simplicity and size of this dish were perfect: enough to have more than one bite, but still leaving plenty of room for the epic main entree.

Roasted Porchetta (potato puree, baby carrots)

Turkey be gone. Behold: pork. Pork wrapped in pork actually, the loin and belly rolled and then roasted for a dish unlike any other I’ve ever had. There was a saltiness to the tenderloin, but that was pacified by the rich belly. Local carrots offered a hint of sweetness to balance the savory layers pork. I am not joking when I tell you that I asked Chef¬†Dave Schneller if he would cook this for me for Thanksgiving.

Pot de Creme (sugar pumpkin, maple, ginger snap)

Lastly dessert. Pot de creme of pumpkin, creamy and delicious in its own right, but the highlight for me was the ginger snaps. These thin wafers had enough substance to withstand being used as a scoop for the pot de creme but just soft enough to to not break into lots of tiny crumbs when you take a small bite.

During dinner I was looking at their regular dinner and beverage menus and noticed they have mocktails! I know this is just a small side note, but as someone who dines out for lunch and refrains from mid-day, work-week adult beverages, I really appreciate seeing options other than just water and soda on a menu.

I’ve yet to dine off the regular menu at Canary Square, but if this dinner is any indication of the kitchen talent, I would definitely be ready to head back for another meal. This reclaimed auto-body garage-type space is complete with a full wall of windows that open up to a patio in the warmer months. Exposed brick and low-hanging glass lanterns provide a cozy charm that is well-suited for a New England winter.

I was a guest of Canary Square; all opinions are my own.

Do you like Thanksgiving turkey, or could you easily substitute something else?

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